More Sagrada glory ...

I am looking to the ceiling, marvelling at everything, and suddenly the organ plays to add even more atmosphere ... take a look and listen ...

When I've had my fill of the interior and the facades (does one ever get enough of this place?), I make my way to the Museum which is beautifully curated and highly informative. It tells the story of the development and creation of this place - from a traditional Gothic concept to this Gaudi structural masterpiece that surely has to be one of the most stunning buildings in the whole wide world. 

I love stained glass windows but these are something else. The way the sunlight soaks through them, generating haunting channels of light in a spectrum of perfectly controlled colour, has me enthralled. I read all about Joan Vila-Grau, who was commissioned in 1999 to create these incredible stained glass windows based on the instructions Gaudi left behind. There's an informative video and colour samples. where ink meets glass to create the perfect colour combos. Ink is my all-time favourite art medium to work with and I'm in creative heaven. Inspirational ideas are brewing ...

As the photos I've showcased in the previous post reveal ... Joan nailed it and Gaudi would be so proud.

Joan Vila-Grau at work

Gaudi was influenced by mathematics, geometry and nature and this incredible building combines all these concepts, and so much more. I am intrigued by the "Magic Square" on the Passion Facade, where adding up every combo of four numbers in a variety of patterns always equals 33. It's genius. Try it ...

The fabulous sculptures, doors, panels and detail on the Passion Facade were created by the late Subirachs, who also created this fabulous Magic Square, which he adapted from a similar square developed by Albrecht Durer (whose work always intrigues me). Mind blowing stuff. I love the patina look and the intricate detail. I remain in creative heaven. 

I head to the exit, although I don't really want to leave. I step out the door to discover that a major thunderstorm is about to unleash. Staff are battening down hatches, lightning is flashing across the sky, thunder is booming and a foreboding darkness descending. I am literally almost swept off my feet by the wind, even though I am tucked into a recess of the building. I hold onto the doorway to secure myself as I look up. There is no rain as yet, but without doubt it is coming very soon. This state of affairs is rather disconcerting but immensely atmospheric. And I have no choice but to stay ... 

A thunderstorm strikes

I return inside and soak up more of what the Museum offers while the storm rages outside. A little later I venture out again and, whilst the storm has subsided, there is still lightning striking and a moody grey sky above. The rain has stopped, but the ground is wet. I decide, as I pass the Nativity Facade again on my way out, to have one last look inside. 

OMG - what a different scene awaits me. It is 7:30pm by now and not many people around. Without the sunshine the colours are more muted. There's a mellow feel, like the place is heading for an easy and well-earned slumber. It is striking in quite a different way to before. Joan's windows seem even more hauntingly beautiful and I am so glad I came back for another look. 

Before heading to the Metro and back to my hotel I walk around the outside of the Basilica, looking up. The Virgin Mary Tower was completed in December 2021 and it stands tall and proud with its stunning star. I didn't go up the towers today but they offer fantastic views of the city - next time ...

Back at my hotel, I eat the other half of my baguette, drink a can of beer and crash. My body and soul need nothing more for today. 

All I can say is that everyone should visit this building at least once in a lifetime. I spent four hours absorbing every ounce of its beauty and complexity, and even though I was anticipating an exquisite experience, these hours of my life touched my soul and inspired my creative juices more than I expected. I could have stayed for much longer. And I will aim to return to see its progress. 

OBSERVATION OF THE DAY:
Below the Basilica is the Crypt - a church within a church. This is where Gaudi's tomb is. As I leave the Sagrada, I pass the Crypt entrance - it is open to the public for those who wish to worship at the evening service. I'm tempted to stay for the experience, which would give another perspective of this wonderful place, but I feel replete and weary.

I do recommend a late afternoon/early evening excursion - less crowds, cooler, and stay awhile to see how the light transitions from day to evening glow.

 

The Sagrada Familia - magnificent inside and out

Once through the entrance gates and security, I get my downloaded audio guide going and prepare to discover this Gaudi masterpiece. Work began in 1882 and completion is ongoing. Gaudi died in 1926 after being hit by a tram and the city went into mourning. He had, however, prepped his team well and work on his original vision continues into the 21st Century. 

When I enter the interior, the windows and light take my breath away. It's like standing in a manmade forest. The architecture is pure genius, the creativity is boundless. I am mesmerised and drink it all in. It's busy but not crowded and there is a reverence throughout. You can read all about this stunning place on the net so I'll just let my photos speak for themselves ... 

OBSERVATION OF THE DAY:
I was in heaven taking zillions of photos, along with everyone else. The light changes, you notice a new nuance, learn an important component of its history. Because of that beautiful light, some great photos can be captured - but of course, both inside and out, it's impossible to fully appreciate the Basilica's brilliance unless you're there in person. Get there if you can!

Out and about in Barcelona

It is raining outside when I wake up, as forecast. I allow myself a leisurely morning and then wander up Las Ramblas to the Mercato Boqueria and indulge in a couple of fresh juice cups - mango/strawberry and later mango/pineapple. At 2 Euro a pop, they are refreshing and delicious sustenance and beckon from stalls everywhere. For some reason I just feel like mango juice. Which reminds me of when I was at a conference in Manila in 1995 at which, given I was pregnant and not drinking alcohol, I almost overdosed on the stuff.

At this market you'll find fruit, fish, empanadas, pastries, nuts, nougat, ham, chips, olives, gelato, potato twirls and also several stalls selling nothing but offal - tripe, pigs trotters, sheep heads, brains ... urgh. There are also many oysters stalls where they shuck to order. Much as a I love an oyster, it is a bit too early. 

The place is busy but not seething. It's cool and shady and perfect for a relaxed wander amongst food. I buy an Iberian ham & cheese baguette for 4 Euro and munch on half of it. It is the ideal scrumptious lunch. 

I amble back to the Placa de Reial with its shady palms and tables neatly encased within pillared archways. I have a beer at a cafe called "Cerveseria Colon" - a relaxed vibe, without the street hassle and touting that goes on in Las Ramblas. My waiter is excellent and my San Miguel beer (5.5 Euro) is icy cold and goes down a treat. 

I make some trip notes, sip my beer and watch the world go by. Strings of cyclists pass through regularly, in nose to tail trails. Tourists stroll from A to B. Locals go about their business. I am sure to hold on tight to my bag. After gaining a reputation as the pickpocket and mugging capital of Europe, illegally-minded individuals are likely to get pounced upon quickly by a policeman with a gun. I've never seen such a police presence.

Eventually it is time for me to prepare for my real reason for being in Barcelona - a visit to the Sagrada Familia. I've already booked my ticket online for 4pm entry. I make my way there by Metro ...

I take the green line three stops and the blue line two stops. I hop off at Sagrada Familia station and there, at street level, is the magnificent building I have come to see. Even with scaffolding, cranes and fencing, it is a sight to behold. I've seen it from the outside before but I am now about to see the magnificence of the inside. This is a good thing as it is just starting to rain ...

The Nativity Facade

OBSERVATION OF THE DAY:

The Metro system is excellent and ticket purchase simple. Do make sure you're on the right side of the track, going in the direction you're headed, before you enter through the turnstile. Masks are mandatory on public transport in Spain but not everyone is wearing one on my Metro ride, despite the constant announcements to do so. 

An Evening in Barcelona

I wake up from my post-journey doze at 8pm and, feeling fully refreshed, I get ready to do some evening wandering. I step onto Las Ramblas. It is buzzing. Touristy - yes; fabulous - yes; alive - very much so. 

It's a warm night and I meander my way down side streets and along alleyways in the Gothic quarter. Shops are open, bars and restaurants are humming. Everywhere is well lit. I feel safe and deliriously happy to be surrounded by European culture, languages, accents, cheerfulness, style, freedom. I'm in Spain, pinch me. No one has a mask on.

Las Ramblas por la noche (at night)

There are plenty of homeless people about, but this is unavoidable in any large city anywhere - although most of them don't have the solid police presence that is on display in central Barcelona. I've already noted that there is a police station about 100m from my hotel with plenty of cops keeping a check on things in the locale.

I find a small bar called My Bar, off a large and stylish square - the Placa de Reial with its restaurants and well-heeled people dining al fresco. My Bar is more incognito and seems like a good place for a solo drink to get into the swing of things.

When I spot a woman lying in the fetal position on a human-sized dog-style bed against a graffitied garage door opposite My Bar, I wonder if maybe this is not such a good place after all. She is moaning and writhing in plain view of everyone who passes. Some people stop and stare, some recoil in shock, others are oblivious and don't even notice her. She is gaunt, just skin and bone. I've no idea how old she might be, I can't see her face. She has a mop of dark black hair and a white slip dress. She is barefoot and no doubt drugged up. She's like a ghost girl. 

I enter My Bar and order a Peroni (5.90 Euro, standard). I sit at a bar with a view of Ghostgirl and make some trip notes. I order a glass of rose (4 Euro). It is 11pm and the place is filling up.

A nice cold beer - and Ghostgirl

Ghostgirl is now being given a can of coke by another homeless guy wearing a yellow vest and staggering around drunkenly munching on a sandwich. I guess they're looking after each other. The bar is heaving, people are coming in droves - solos, couples, family groups, friends. There's a big screen, a well stocked bar, indoor/outdoor seating, music (they're playing Talking Heads). They do food; I am not hungry. 

The place is almost full to capacity now. To create more space for newcomers, I shift and join another solo drinker - Aibol from Almaty, Kazakhstan. Aibol - sounds like "eyeball" and means "shining moon"!! Tells me he's a classical pianist who now works in crude oil - there's much more money to be made! Okay. Yeah right. 

Ghostgirl is lying quietly scratching her thick black locks. She is flopped on her back in an "I'm badly hungover, leave me alone" pose. From afar, she looks like Sleeping Beauty; the reality is anything but. Most people avoid her. I want to help her, but there is nothing I can do. 

I find out more about Kazakhstan, and Aibol learns more about NZ and after a pleasant first evening on European soil, I return to my little room at Hostal Benidorm - alone, although Aibol may have had other ideas!!! It is well after midnight; the streets feel safe and the nightclubs are cranking up. 

OBSERVATION OF THE DAY:
After just a few hours, I am loving being in this cosmopolitan Catalan city again. It is indeed, as Lambros says, a "complete" city - and it sits firmly in my book of favourites. 

To Hostal Benidorm

I am delivered to Hostal Benidorm and take the elevator to the 2nd floor where reception is located. I am not sure what to expect but my gut has positive vibes so that's a good start. 

I only booked the place three days before leaving, having researched and written to a few to see if they might offer a "travel writer's deal". I kept an eye on prices and offerings while waiting for a response. 

Meanwhile, friends were a little concerned that I was due to fly in a couple of days and still hadn't booked anywhere. I wasn't worried, the chances of Barcelona being booked out might be possible during the Olympics or if the city was hosting a football final. It may be trickier to find a last-minute room come Sept/Oct 2024 when Barcelona hosts the 37th America's Cup. But on this occasion, I was better off investing my time into researching the ideal place to stay, rather than expending energy worrying about missing out on somewhere and making a poor decision.

In the event, no response was forthcoming from any of the hotels I had approached so, after a bit more research, I decided to lock in Hostal Benidorm on Las Ramblas, Barcelona's renowned boulevard. I know, I know ... the hotel name holds little appeal as it brings about visions of a hostel in one of the most derided parts of Spain. Still, "hostal" is not the same as "hostel" and I knew this was not the type of place sought by young backpackers happy with dorms. 

So, with faith in my final choice, I had confirmed my online booking - for a single room with a single bed, and an all-important view. I didn't want to look down an interior services chute, so I paid a few more Euros for a decent view, although it wasn't exactly clear what that would be of. As I was soon to discover, the "room with a view" was worth every extra Euro!

I am led to my room by a friendly chap who helps me with my bags. It has a double bed (an upgrade!?) and impressive views out to the courtyard and roof chimneys of the Palau Guell, one of Gaudi's masterpieces, which I will visit later during my stay. To the left, the rear of houses with washing draped and a degree or urban shambles on show. I find it all charming. 

My room is compact, recently renovated, clean, simple, stylish and peaceful. The bathroom is well-designed and functions perfectly. This hotel room has everything I need, and nothing I don't. It's well-priced, well-appointed, well-located. It is perfect. 

Barcelona room with a view

I would normally go wandering straight away but, after my 30-hour hassle-free journey, I am feeling weary. I lie down. It is around 5pm. There is no hurry, Barcelona will be in full swing for many hours yet. I sleep.

OBSERVATION OF THE DAY:
My room in this 2* hotel is comfortable, central, aesthetically pleasing and affordable. Small but perfectly formed, it delivers on all counts - and definitely miles better value than most accommodation options in NZ. Recommended!